Installing drywall, also known as drywall, stone, or wall panels, is an important part of building a home. Before drywall was used, construction took a long time to build a base that would hold the paint or wallpaper. Now you can easily install your drywall in literally hours, depending on the size of the room required.
Steps
Method 1 of 6: Choosing Drywall
Step 1. Drywall is usually supplied in 4'x8 'sheets (1m x 2.40m)
You can take sheets 4'x12 '(1m x 3, 60m), but they are more difficult to work with and, as a rule, they are used by professionals, working in several hands. Usually, these sheets break easily during transport to the job site, but they require less work as there are fewer joints around the perimeter.
Usually drywall is installed vertically, but if desired, the sheets can be arranged horizontally
Step 2. Remember that the thickness ranges from 1/4 -5/8 (0.6cm - 1.6cm), 1/2 (1.2cm) is the most popular
1/4 (0.6cm) sheets are commonly used as overlays on existing drywall and are not intended for use in new construction. Check the local building codes in your area.
Step 3. Pay attention to the composition of the drywall
When choosing drywall, choose a structure appropriate for the room in which it will be installed. For example, there are moisture resistant solutions called "green stone" and are intended for use in high humidity areas such as garages and bathrooms. Check with your local hardware store for availability before purchasing.
It might be overkill to roll up the whole house with green drywall, but it can be useful in places with high humidity, such as bathrooms, while not being used in the area where the bath or shower is installed. Green drywall is not very suitable for wet locations. To do this, use a fiberglass-reinforced plate in the shower or bath area
Method 2 of 6: Verifying the Installation Site
Step 1. Prepare the area of the wall that your drywall will cover
Remove old drywall, nails, screws, and anything else that will prevent new drywall sheets from adhering to the uprights.
Step 2. Inspect and repair hidden damage
Make sure that loose fittings, moisture damage, termites will not be a problem during installation. Do not be surprised if you find installed metal racks instead of wooden ones. Steel uprights are generally better than wood ones as they provide extra strength, termite protection, and fire resistance. When mounting on metal racks, the only difference is that you will need to use screws instead of nails to fasten the drywall.
Step 3. Check the insulating tape stapled to the uprights
Use paper-backed Kraft tape for repairs to improve heat retention.
Step 4. Use triple expansion foam to seal cracks and breaks in exterior walls
Look for tough, moisture-proof / water-repellent foam that will last long and won't shrink. Do not apply foam to or around doors and windows.
Method 3 of 6: Marking and Cutting Ceiling Plasterboard
Step 1. Measure from the corner and mark your drywall so that its ends lie on the rafters or crossbars
Never leave the edge of the drywall unsecured. The edge must always be screwed to the rafters or cross member.
- If the edge of your drywall does not end with a rafter or crossbeam then try the following:
- Measure the length from the farthest point of the part to the center of the support and transfer this measurement to drywall.
- Place the T-ruler along the line on the drywall and use the blade to run along the line formed by the T-ruler.
- Break the sheet along the cut line.
- Double check that the end of the drywall rests on the center of the rafter or crossmember.
Step 2. Apply a drop of glue to each of the rafters or crossbars to which the drywall will be attached
Do this right before you attach the drywall.
Step 3. Lift the drywall sheet towards the ceiling, starting from the corner of the room
You want the edges to be perpendicular to the rafters or crossbars and fit snugly against the wall.
Step 4. Drive five screws in a straight line through the drywall into one rafter or crossbar
Repeat this for each of the rafters or crossbars underneath the drywall.
- Make sure the five screws are evenly spaced along the rafter or crossmember.
- Leave 1/2 inch (1.27cm) buffer zones around the edges when driving in the screws. Do not screw too close to the edge of the drywall.
- Sink the heads of the screws directly into the drywall, but not deep enough to break through the surface.
Step 5. Continue lifting, gluing, and screwing on the drywall until one row of the ceiling is completely covered
Begin the next row from the edge of the wall next to the previous row, but place the seams between the ends of the first row at least 4 feet (1.22m) from the seams of the second.
Method 4 of 6: Marking and Cutting Drywall Walls
Step 1. Mark the location of all the posts you are using with a nail finder
Don't assume that all of your racks will be 16 '(40cm) or 24' (60cm) 'apart as they should. Due to the developer's careless carpentry work, some of the racks may be displaced 1/2 (1, 2cm) in different directions. It is a great idea to run masking tape along the floor while you have bare posts, and mark the center line of each post on it with a thick marker.
Step 2. Measure the wall with a piece of drywall to determine if the edge will fit into the center of the rack
Again, you may need to cut some drywall pieces to center the edge on the center of the rack.
When cutting drywall, use a T-piece and a sharp knife to mark a line on the drywall paper. Place your knee on the opposite side of the cut and briskly pull the piece of drywall towards you while pushing your knee away from you, breaking the drywall along the line. Use a knife to cut the paper at the fold
Step 3. Apply a drop of glue to each rack or cross member that will hold the drywall
Do this right before you attach the drywall.
Step 4. With someone else's help, lift the drywall up onto the wall and, using a drill, drive five screws into the upright in the center of the wall panel
Start in the center and work from it. Install five screws in each post.
- Additional screws can help in some cases, but are usually unnecessary; they may require additional filler and sanding, which will be distracting when finishing.
- Consider using a spring accessory with a depth stop. It is designed for automatic countersinking of each drywall screw and, when the desired depth is reached, begins to vibrate, giving a signal that it is time to release the drill.
Step 5. Use a drywall saw to cut uneven holes such as arches
Continue overlapping drywall to window and door openings. You can cut off excess dry plaster later. At the same time, make sure that the seams do not line up with the corner of the window or door, and do not sew panels around the cutouts for now.
There is a good way to install drywall over protruding pipes. Place the drywall on the pipe and tap it lightly with a flat board until a small indentation forms on the back. Then set the drywall aside and, using a drywall saw or compass, make a perfect hole along the groove. It is much easier to do this than if you knock out a large hole, which requires 3-4 times of putty to complete
Step 6. Continue lifting, gluing, and screwing on the drywall until one row of the wall is completely covered
Start the next row from the edge of the wall next to the previous one.
Step 7. Cut off all the pieces of drywall that protrude over the frames of the windows and doors
Fasten drywall around the perimeter of doors and windows and then cut the required pieces with a rotary drill or drywall saw.
Method 5 of 6: Putty and tape drywall
Step 1. Dilute your starter compound or putty to a sour cream consistency
Once you get the first layer of putty, which you applied directly to the seam, smooth it out a little, this will allow the tape to adhere better to the putty.
Step 2. Use a putty knife to apply the correct amount of putty
Don't worry if you don't get it perfect the first time; you will remove the excess after applying the tape. Make sure to cover the entire seam.
Step 3. Apply drywall tape over the joint where you applied the filler
Use a 6 (15cm) or 8 (20cm) trowel to level the tape, starting at one end and pulling it down the length of the tape in one stroke.
- Pre-cut and soak pieces of drywall tape in clean water, but do not saturate it too much.
- Some contractors do not use perforated and fibrous tape as they do not work perfectly and require additional filler and sanding to get the job done correctly. Get the job done the way you like and based on your budget.
Step 4. Remove the filler around the tape with a putty knife
Remove excess putty to obtain a smooth and flat joint surface.
Step 5. Check the newly taped seam for air bubbles
If necessary, wet the spatula blade and smooth it out.
Step 6. To glue the corners, use the perforated corner used for both the outside and inside corners
This will make your work truly professional.
Apply tape and putty in the same way. Apply the required amount of compound. If you haven't already, bend the tape exactly in the center and press down on the fold a couple of times. Apply the tape so that the crease is exactly in the center of the corner. Remove excess filler with a putty knife
Step 7. Apply at least two or three layers, using a wider trowel for each additional layer
Let the putty dry before applying the next coat. If you are in a hurry, it will be with bubbles!
- More finishing putty will give better results, but it will take patience to dry.
- Do not add putty to newly taped seams. Give them one day to dry completely between coats, unless you use a quick dry putty that hardens within an hour. It is a good idea to use a pink putty, which turns white after drying, indicating that it is ready to overcoat.
Step 8. Remember to apply a layer over each screw
There should be no edges left after covering the seam or screw groove with putty. Keep the trowel blade flat on the drywall and evenly but firmly pull it towards you. Practice on an old piece of drywall for proper technique.
Run some filler over drywall with minor flaws that may arise during installation, such as excess nail / screw holes
Step 9. Repeat these steps until all seams are taped
Method 6 of 6: Finishing and sanding
Step 1. After the finish coat has dried, use a drywall sanding squeegee to sand hard-to-reach areas
Don't get carried away too much and sand until the surface of the paper appears. This process will go quickly, since the putty is easy to sand.
Step 2. For sanding everything else, use a hand sander with fine sandpaper
Again, proceed with caution. All you need is a couple of passes at the seams.
Step 3. Using a pencil and a flashlight, go over the entire putty surface and check for imperfections
The light will help you bring out flaws. Outline the problem areas with a pencil. Use a sanding sponge or sanding block to remove any imperfections in these areas.
Step 4. Prime all walls, then sand again
Apply a coat of primer to the walls, then lightly sand the entire area using a sanding squeegee. Although many beginners skip this step, it is very important to get a good, smooth finish and to avoid the lint left over from the initial sanding.
Step 5. Do not over-sand
Sanding may seem like fun and fun, but some people get too carried away and sand right through the tape. If this happens, add a little putty and sand after dry.