Some older homes built without proper basement waterproofing have a damp basement problem. Installing a drain pump can be an excellent way to fix this problem. If you are faced with such a problem in your home, then this article will help you diagnose the problem and help you decide if you need to install a drain pump. More details are provided in the next step.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Diagnosing the problem
Step 1. Examine your basement during heavy rain
Most of the problems associated with the presence of moisture in this room, in fact, are problems of poor drainage of water outside the room, and not in the room itself. Before you start destroying your basement, make sure the problem is in your basement.
- Check the gutters to make sure they are not clogged with leaves or other debris and that water flows freely down them into the downpipes.
- Make sure that the downpipes drain water far enough away from the house, and that it does not flow back to the house. As a rule, water should be diverted at least 1-1.5 meters from the foundation.
- Check the slope of the soil near the foundation. Make sure it stretches at least half a meter from your home. If you have depressions in the soil, water can collect in them and then seep down and into the basement. Eliminate these issues before thinking about installing a pump.
Step 2. Find out if there is a layer of gravel under the concrete floor of your room
Homes built in the last thirty years usually have this layer of gravel. It helps to eliminate the unevenness of the soil that occurs when digging a pit. If you can contact the builders, then ask them, or ask neighbors who live in similar houses, if such a layer was laid during the construction of your house.
You may only be convinced that there is a layer of gravel when you punch a hole in the floor. That is why it makes sense to try to get this information in other ways, before you get to the big work
Step 3. Find a suitable location for the pump
It would be ideal to locate the pump close to a wall, since you will have to extend a drainage pipe from the pump at least three meters from the wall on the outside of it.
- Find a location that is comfortable for work and also where you can make a hole outward in the end beam.
- Step back about 20 cm from the foundation wall so as not to accidentally touch the base.
- Be careful not to puncture the water pipe. If the water is brought into the house through the wall, then everything is in order, but check the building codes to make sure exactly where the plumbing is laid if the pipe is located under the house. As a rule, an external water pipe is laid at a distance of about 1.2-1.8 m from the sewer pipe.
Step 4. Draw the outline of the drainage sleeve on the floor
Leave a 10 cm gap around the sleeve for easier installation of the sleeve (you will fill this gap with gravel and concrete later).
Part 2 of 3: Digging a drainage well
Step 1. Remove the concrete cover
It's a pretty quick job if you can manage to rent an electric jackhammer. Try not to grind the concrete, but instead break it into easy-to-remove chunks. When you have cut the concrete into chunks, pry them open with a jackhammer and remove.
- As an alternative to a jackhammer, you can use an impact drill (hammer drill) with a concrete drill, a sledgehammer and a concrete chisel. Insert the largest drill into the drill, punch holes in the concrete every 10 centimeters around the outer perimeter of the hole to be cut, and then split the concrete between the holes using a sledgehammer and chisel.
- Continue drilling holes and hammering in the concrete until you split it into pieces that can be removed easily. If a steel mesh is found in the floor, you may need a heavy duty metal shears or a cutting disc to remove it.
Step 2. Dig a drainage well
The depth of the well must be at least 30 centimeters deeper than the height of the pump sleeve. Use 15 liter buckets to take out the trash.
- Add or replace some coarse gravel at the bottom of the sump so that the pump sleeve is flush with the floor. This gravel will provide good drainage and will also direct the water into a drainage well for pumping out (so it won't seep elsewhere in your basement).
- Depending on the type of liner you are using, you may have to drill many holes in the liner for water to enter. The diameter of these holes must be less than the size of the gravel so that the gravel cannot fall through them.
Step 3. Place the sleeve in the well
Gravel the remaining space between the sleeve and the wall of the well, leaving about 15 centimeters to floor level. Any gravel of about 10-12 mm can be used for this.
Step 4. Concrete the floor
Make a concrete mix and fill the space above the gravel with it to floor level. Smooth and smooth the filled mixture with a trowel. When the concrete has set (after about 8 hours), you can continue to install the pump.
Part 3 of 3: Installing the Pump
Step 1. Assemble the PVC drain pipe until it exits through the end beam
Most pumps use 1.5”tubing, however it is recommended that you read the instructions that came with the pump to make sure you have the correct tubing. Leave a small piece of pipe outside the house as a flexible hose can be used for the rest of the distance.
- When assembling the pipe, remember to try on the fit of all sections before starting to glue them. Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid solvent vapor poisoning. Apply the adhesive to both the inside and outside of the surfaces to be bonded. The choice of specific assemblies for pipe assembly depends on the design of your home and foundation, so this part of the work should be done by a fairly experienced plumber.
- Use an appropriately sized circular saw to make a hole in the base of the house for the pipe. It is best to make such a hole outside the house using a 5 cm diameter nozzle.
Step 2. Install the pump
Place the pump in a drain sleeve, connect the end section of the assembled pipe to it, and plug the pump into a power outlet.
You may need to drill many holes in the pump sleeve to allow water to enter. The diameter of these holes must be less than the size of the gravel so that the gravel cannot fall through them
Step 3. Check the position of the float
The design of the float can differ for different types of pumps, but whatever it is, it is important that nothing interferes with the movement of the float, which should rise and fall freely as the water level changes. As the drain well fills, the float should rise freely to the level at which the pump turns on, and then drop back without getting stuck between the pump and the liner wall. This is usually accomplished by centering the pump in the center of the liner, but it is still best to double-check that the pump is installed correctly.
Step 4. Install the check valve
It is necessary to retain water in the pipe after stopping the pump to avoid endless pump on and off cycles. Most of these pumps are sold complete with clamps and connecting sleeves, which indicate the direction of movement of the water. Place the valve on the vertical section of the pipe and tighten the clamps with a screwdriver.
Step 5. Switch on the pump and check its operation
Fill the well with water and check that it works properly under real conditions. Check all connections for leaks, make sure that the water is drained to the location you chose and that the check valve is working when the pump is turned off.
Advice
- Consider adding a power backup system to your sump pump. It consists of a 12 Volt DC powered pump, a deep discharge-charge multiple cycle battery, a float switch and a flood alarm. If, during a heavy downpour (when the likelihood of the drainage pump being triggered), electricity goes out, then your basement will become damp. In this situation, the battery would supply the second pump with power until it runs out of charge or until the power supply is restored.
- Most drainage pumps are powered by electricity. There is, however, another type of pump that is driven by tap water. When using this type of pump, it is usually necessary to install a double check valve in the water supply system to avoid contamination of the drinking water.
- To reduce pump noise and facilitate pump replacement and maintenance, it is recommended that a flexible rubber adapter be used between the pump and the discharge pipe.
- To avoid silt and sand from entering the pump, it is recommended to place the pump sleeve in a diaphragm filter.
- Install a mechanical clamp between the pump and the pump service liner.
Warnings
- Use gloves when mixing concrete.
- Use noise and dust protection products when breaking up old concrete.
- Always wear safety glasses.